Oxygen

The Cabinet met again after what was the shortest interval between meetings in our history (have to make up for ground lost during the pandemic, right?) to consider the question of oxygen. Specifically, we wanted to examine the impact of oxygenation on opened bottles of scotch. In the wine world, oxygenation is the subject of much anxiety. There is far less discussion among whisky enthusiasts, but in theory we should be at least a little bit anxious about this too. In the past we've noted that bottles that have been open for a long time seem to lose their bright edges and become a little flatter, duller. It was time to put it to a head-to-head test. New and sealed beside old and open. 

The first test set a bottle of Lagavulin 8, that was three-quarters drained five years ago, in contrast with a fresh bottle. Because of the time elapsed, the new one was from a more recent bottling, so some difference was expected regardless, but the question was more whether it was notably superior. And the answer? It was, perhaps, a little superior, but not notably. This was a surprise. Perhaps peated malts such as the Islays hold their flavour profile better in the face of oxygenation? The new was livelier, to be sure, but the old was still recognizably and enjoyably a  Lagavulin.  

Next, we pitted a fresh bottle of Laphroaig Select against one that had been opened nine months prior. About 20% was left. Most whisky drinkers will recognize that nine months is not very long to have an open bottle kicking around, especially if it's one you are wanting to savour, or save for special company, but wine people routinely say that a wine can become "undrinkable" after being open for three days. Not months, not weeks, days. Wine is different. Wine people are different. These two Laphroiags were from the same bottling, so the comparison should be valid. What did we find? The citrus notes present in the fresh bottle were perhaps no longer as obvious, but that was about it. The opened bottle had a very similar profile and was just as enjoyable. One member even remarked that he preferred it. 

In summary - oxygenation is real, but for young peated whiskies, it does not appear to be a catastrophe. At some point we will test other types of whisky and see if we can come up some guidelines. But in the meantime, when in doubt, you can't go wrong by just drinking it all now.